We were raised to honor and respect cultural traditions and beliefs that differed from our own. When we left for our 21-month journey, we wanted to explore a large variety of customs that exist in this diverse country of ours.
We spent time in many locations that provided us with the opportunity to view different architecture, ways of life and a history we were not exposed to in New England. We stopped at Amish settlements in several states (and always purchased some of the delicious cheese); we spent days in Cajun country (exploring the swamps, holding baby alligators and eating cajun food); we visited Mennonite communities; we explored New Ulm, Minn., including the Glockenspiel and the Hermann the German monument; attended the tulip festival in Pella, Iowa, and admired the German architecture in Frankenmuth, Mich., and Fredericksburg, Texas.
On our list of places to see, we had also included some Native American sites that included the Ojibwe Museum and Cultural Center in Wisconsin, the Chickasaw Nation’s Capital in Tishomingo, Oklahoma, The Honoring-the-Clans Sculpture Garden in Winnebago, Nebraska, Pipestone National Monument in Pipestone, Minnesota, the Mandan, Hidatsa and Arikara Nation Museum in New Town, N.D., the Crow Indian Reservation, the Fort Peck Indian Reservation and the Blackfeet Nation, to name only a few.
Three months after we arrived in Green Valley, we purchased our small living quarters (a lot bigger than a motel room!) and we were thrilled to be a part of a historic community. We quickly became friends with one of our neighbors and he shared with us information about our new environment. He taught us that we lived on La Canyaada, not Canada, and he loved to help us pronounce the name of the famous cacti — aah-war-oh, not Cigaro.
We will also remember our neighbor for his love of sharing stories with us — stories that he heard as a youngster in Mexico. One of the stories was about the chupacabra — a story that some mothers used to keep their children in bed at bedtime. He was the first person to make us realize that we needed to learn about all of the different cultures that exist in the state of Arizona.
We have read numerous books about the different ethnic groups that have created the mixture of cultures that exist in the sixth-largest state in the country, by land area. We developed an educational plan and off we went. We participated in the Fiesta de los Vaqueros in Tucson, attended the San Juan Festival, observed a White Mountain Apache puberty dance, had a discussion with a Tohono O’odham elder about the repatriation of artifacts and bodies of children from the Carlisle Indian Boarding School, attended and participated in the Dia de los Muertos celebrations, sang along at the Old Tucson Studios Cowboy Music Festival, clapped and waved at the Rex Allen Days parade, danced at the Waila Music Festival and fell in love with a handsome horse at a Quarter Horse competition — to name just a few.
In this state, we have also visited and explored many of the tribal lands. Over the last 12 years, we have visited the Hopi Reservation on three separate occasions. In this article, we will share with you our explorations and activities.
Headed north
The Hopi Indian Reservation, entirely surrounded by the Navajo Reservation, is in the northern part of the state and consists of 2,500 square miles. The inhabitants call it “Hopiland.” This is the center of the Hopi population and culture: a place where many of the inhabitants keep the old traditions and culture alive. The Hopi view this land as sacred and consider Hopiland to be private property. Visitors are welcome, but strict restrictions apply pertaining to exploring sacred sites, attending ceremonies and photography. The reservation consists of three large islands of rock, called “mesas,” on which the majority of the population still live: First Mesa, Second Mesa and Third Mesa. Currently, there are 12 traditional villages. On Second Mesa, there is a restaurant, a museum, gift shops and a small motel.
Every time we have visited Hopiland, we have headed east from Tuba City. A short driving distance from the village of Moenkopi, we stop at one of our favorite places: Coal Mine Canyon, a part of the lengthy, well-known, and frequently photographed Blue Canyon. This multi-colored canyon is in a remote area, is not listed as a “place to see,” does not have signage, and is difficult to find. We were given directions at the hotel we stayed at in Moenkopi. The lack of visitors, however, does not decrease its natural beauty.
The gray, white, pink, burgundy, and gold colors make the spires, unique rock formations, and cliffs appear surreal. It is a magical place that offers visitors a place to dream, enjoy, and be transformed by the sheer wonder of it all. There is a picnic table near the canyon’s edge for those who wish to stay a while. We love to linger here, take photographs, walk along the rock edges and enjoy the peace and quiet. For those interested in a tour of Blue canyon, reservations can be made at the Cultural Center on Second Mesa.
During our multi-day trips, we have always chosen to stay at the Hopi Culture Center Hotel on Second Mesa. This well-designed and maintained space includes a garden, restaurant, spacious guest rooms, gift shops and a museum.
The Hopi Cultural Center Museum is an excellent site to explore and learn about the Hopi culture and traditions. We were fascinated with the magnificent historical photographs, the variety and quality of exhibits on the Hopi way of life and examples of petroglyphs (rock art). The historical photographs of the village of Old Oraibi were stunning. The docents were helpful in providing information on how to acquire guides and the list of tours that are available.
On two separate occasions, we have taken a tour, to the Da’Wa Petroglyph Site on Third Mesa. This area is considered to be a sacred site and access is restricted to those accompanied by an approved tribal guide. Driving up to the site, the first thing that was noticeable is the towering, red-sandstone cliffs covered with thousands of petroglyphs dating to 750 BC. It was easy to spot snakes, rivers, bighorn sheep, hands, solar calendars, feet, flute players, stick figures, and a variety of geometric patterns. The quality, quantity, and significance of this rock art is amazing. We always feel privileged to be at a site where ancient civilizations left messages for others, including us. No wonder the Hopi believe this is a sacred site. This is the most impressive display of petroglyphs we have seen in Arizona.
On another guided tour, we visited the village of Old Oraibi. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this community is on Third Mesa and was built before 1100 AD. It is believed to be the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in the United States. Some of the adobe structures have begun to disintegrate, but this village continues to be inhabited. Tours of the village are available. At the museum on Second Mesa there are excellent historical photographs of Old Oraibi.
Near the village of Old Oraibi, we visited the Prophecy Rock. This large petroglyph, carved onto the side of a large rock, symbolizes many Hopi prophecies. The detailed rock art speaks to its people about the life path of the world and includes a large human figure, small human figures, circles, a cross, and many other symbols. This is a sacred tribal site and access is restricted to those accompanied by an approved tribal guide.
Keams Canyon
On one occasion, we took off for the eastern end of Hopiland on a solo adventure. We headed to Keams Canyon, located 13 miles east of First Mesa. This settlement, with a population of about 300, was established in the late-1800s as a trading post. During our visit, we drove up the dirt road to the three-mile canyon. We stopped and admired the beautiful fall foliage and walked over to view the flowing river.
In the village, we located the huge, brick building that was originally a Bureau of Indian Affairs boarding school. Today, it serves as a day school for Apache and Navajo children. Across the street from the school, we explored a stunning stone structure: St. Joseph Mission Catholic Church, established in 1928. This is a beautiful and interesting canyon to explore.
While we were in the area, we stopped for an ice cream and headed to the Keams Canyon Trading Post. This is the place to go if you are searching for a particular souvenir. The selection of Native American art is phenomenal and varied. The owner is well-versed in the area and can be very helpful in planning your next adventure in Hopiland. During our last visit, he shared with us that tours will be starting to the Awatovi Ruins,an archeological site that contains the ruins of a 500-year-old pueblo and a 17th century Spanish mission.
Pottery and harvest
There are some events we have participated in that will forever be etched into our memories; here are two examples.
We believe that Hopi pottery is highly treasured art. In September 2013, we had the occasion to spend a day with Garrett Maho, a Hopi potter. We received an education on how he forms the pot and prepares the vessel for the firing process. We watched as the sheep dung, the broken pottery sherds, and the metal pieces were arranged in the outdoor oven. The white pottery was placed in the oven and covered with sheep dung. Hours later, it was time to view the finished product. We immediately fell in love with one little orange and black pot that we brought home. It reminds us of that special day.
On the same day that our pottery was “born,” we headed to Polacca, a village on First Mesa, for the annual Hopi Harvest Festival. We observed ceremonial dances, spoke with wood carvers busy at work, visited with the Maho family, met Neil David Jr. and purchased one of his four-inch Koyala Katsina dolls. The rhythm of the ceremonial drums, the sight of the multi-colored ceremonial garb and the beauty of the handmade art will forever remain a treasured memory.
Oh! We forgot to tell you. In Hopiland, we also purchased a very special item — a blue, denim baseball cap that says: “Don’t worry. Be Hopi.” The cap still exists; however, it definitely looks “well-loved and worn.”
Travels with Two Sisters is a series of Arizona adventures with Green Valley residents Marie “Midge” Lemay and Suzanne “Sue” Poirier. For more discoveries, check out their books: “One Mile at a Time,” “A Gypsy in Our Souls,” “Connecting Dots,” and their latest, “We Don’t Mind if You Come Along.”
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